Home 'SWEET' Home

Good flights, good in-flight food and all on time.

Got home about 14:30, completely exhausted but the box of sweets travelled well and survived the long journey.

Got lots of ideas for paintings, drawings and even some raku sculpture... if only I can find the time?

Roast chicken dinner followed by home made trifle.

Mmmm.... its good to be home.

Last day of Lahore

Omelette for breakfast.

Caught rickshaw (it wasn't green) as far as Tollington Market then walked to NCA.

Nazaish the head of the college was in a big meeting so I left her a copy of the DIY artists book at reception.

Said my goodbyes to Qudsia and Imran and convinced him to let me continue using his phone for the rest of the day, I promised to leave it at the hotel reception on my departure.

Made my way to Beedon Road in search of the sweet shop, buying other gifts along the way.

I started at the bottom of Beedon Road this time and was rewarded with a medium variety box of sweets. As he wrapped it in lovely decorated paper I commented that it was 'bahut sunhaa', which according to my tour guide at the fort means 'very beautiful'. The shopkeeper was so impressed by my description that he handed back Rs50.

I walked back to the hotel via the printing district, contemplating the chances of me ever taking this route again.

At the hotel, I checked in with my flight online before heading out on a mission to The Old City.

My plan was to start at The Delhi Gate and move across the city to the other side. I took my compass/watch as a safety precaution. With The Delhi Gate behind me at the South Eastern side of the city, I headed due West, into the maze.

Inside the walls, it was Medieval and very busy with lots of people packing the narrow streets.

It was cooler with lots of shade and much quieter than outside, with few cars able to get down most of the alleyways.

Most of the traffic was pedestrian and the exchange of goods from warehouse to shop was done by balancing large wicker basket plates on the heads of delivery boys.

I found myself in an area of shoe shops which seemed to go on forever. It was noisier there with men carrying deliveries of shoes at great speed, dodging the customers whilst trying to keep their momentum and balance the heavy loads.

I got caught in a traffic jam of baskets as a man pulling a small cart stopped in the middle of a narrow street. The noise level increased as they all shouted to encourage him to move quicker with his cart full of shoe boxes. The deliveries were stuck as I searched for a chance to escape the situation. I squeezed into a shop space and with everyone else frozen by their heavy loads, I managed to get a quick photo of the blocked artery.

The whole experience of The Old City is a complete attack on the senses.

Like a funfair to a child, stimulation overload but longer lasting than any thrill ride.

The Old City, with its ancient texture and colour is the perfect backdrop for capturing everyday life, from Naan Bread makers to drum workshops.

I passed close to Bad Shahi Mosque and exited onto Ravi Road near Data Darbar Shrine on the West side of the wall. The noise, heat and traffic pollution is felt instantly as you step out of the shade and onto the busy road.

During the rickshaw ride back to the hotel, I noticed the 'sacred horse' that Nazerkat and Ali mentioned the other day. I indicated to the driver that I was ok to get out here and waited by a busy junction for the horse to pass.
Back at the hotel, I ordered Bhujia and Mutton Ginger Handi with Roti. It was an awesome last meal in Lahore and its the first time I've left some Roti since I've been here.

Just been down to check emails. I'm starting to slip back in to UK mode: thinking about work and other projects... back to the grindstone soon. I took a self portrait of my reflection in the office window.I heard from Michael and Karoline about a Sufi Drumming event, which is happening tonight at Regal Chowk, which is near the bottom of Beedon Road.

I went round to investigate but couldn't find the place. I wandered around the busy junction for about 45 mins and was just about to give up when I heard a voice calling my name from the crowd across the road.

It was Nazir, the omelette man from the NCA. I tried explaining my predicament but his English is worse than my Punjabi. He suggested buying me an ice-cream and a cup of tea and introduced me to some of his friends. Non of whom knew of the drumming event.

After showing me around Regal Chowk, I explained to him that 'I must go and catch my plane'. I asked permission to take his photo and he rushed over to the flower stall to pose before ushering me into a rickshaw and explaining to the driver that I worked for NCA.

Got back to hotel at 10:30 which was a good job too, it took me 40 mins to fasten my suitcase.

I left some things for the cleaners: my training shoes, toiletries, chewing gum, crisps, notepad, pens, sellotape and the bottle of Dettol... and lots of Rs with a note saying thank you.

First time I've had socks on for three weeks.

I left the hotel around 00:45hrs. I noticed the reception smelled of the same toxic fumes, which woke me the other morning. The staff were not fazed by me holding my nose whilst checking out.

The taxi ride was fast and furious, crazier than any rickshaw ride.

My feet were aching as I sat in the departure lounge at the airport, probably all the walking I've done just recently and in those beach sandals too.

I doodled a map of Lahore whilst waiting for my flight...

St Georges Embroidered Apple Pie

Omelette for breakfast.
Caught rickshaw to the G.P.O. to mail the postcard paintings back to the UK. I sent them in envelopes to protect the delicate nature of the watercolours. I called them the 'Record & Dispatch Series-Lahore Pakistan'. Who knows... maybe I'll do some more in another place one day?
The postcards are addressed to my studio at the school in Bradley with instructions for receivers to record the image in any way and dispatch when done. It was busy in the roomy post office with lots of counters. I managed to get through the whole process quickly and smoothly then headed to NCA to pay back the money I borrowed from the mini-bus driver last Monday on our trip to Jhelum.
I called in the miniature studios and gave Nazerkat some gifts for looking after me during my stay: a D.I.Y. artists book, a pigeon DVD and a baseball cap for Tidal Properties. Ali Noor hadn't arrived yet so I left his gifts with Nazerkat.
I went to Anarkali Bazaar to buy gifts for my family back home. I enjoyed the frie ndly bartering as I bought 9 heavily embroidered ladies tops in a variety of colours and sizes. He sat me down and we chatted about my visit to Lahore as he sent his son to neighbouring shops to get the sizes he didn't have. We talked about my work at the NCA and he gave me a discount for 'educating his nation'.
I made my way through the bazaar and was taken by some tiny little shoes with curled up toes. I ended up buying the little ones and three more larger pairs, which were exquisitely decorated.

Loaded up with carrier bags, I waddled in the direction of the hotel, enjoying the spectacle of everyday life in Lahore.
I had to drink plenty of water as the bags were heavy in the heat. I saw a crate of small finches for sale, I took a quick photo while the salesman was resting in the shade.
I was surprised to see the gates to the cathedral open, so I wandered inside the grounds. It is called St Michaels Cathedral Church of The Resurrection. There were lots of children in the grounds, all smartly dressed in school uniform as the St Georges flag flew high on the top of the building.

It felt surreal inside the huge building, like I'd somehow stepped into England.
Rashid, who had worked at the cathedral since 1962 was more than happy for me to take some pictures as he told me about the two different services provided for the huge congregation.
One service in English and one service in Urdu, both are full to capacity and he explained that it can get very hot during a service, which is why they have installed the overhead fans down the aisles.
I tried to find the old sweetshop that Imran had taken me to on Beedon road but I ended up drifting into an area of printers, where the workers used hand powered machinery to print anything from newspapers to bottle labels. Back at the hotel, it was nice to have a shower as my feet had collected a lot of dust from my back alley investigations.

Had Bhujia and roti, followed by warm apple pie and ice-cream.

Just packed my suitcase ready for tomorrow.

Glass Cash Bangle Labyrinth

Omelette for breakfast.

Walked to the bank near the G.P.O. but no joy using my credit card.

Caught rickhsaw to Citi-bank and still no use, the ATM were not recognising my card details. After ringing my card company, they informed me that almost all the ATMs in Pakistan are unable to read the chip on cards.

After much discussion, they agreed to over ride the chip and that I would be able to draw some cash after lunch. Its all very frustrating. I was distracted for a couple of minutes watching a professional graffiti artist earn his living in advertising.

I rushed into NCA for tutorials and Nazerkat was the only one who turned up. We had another of our long chats about his paintings and about post graduation networking strategies.

Checked e-mails in the coolest (temperature wise) room in Lahore then I collected my prints etc from the gallery.

Got some cash from ATM at the bank (YAHOO!!) and returned to NCA to find the minibus driver who helped me out on the trip to Jhelum but he wasn't around.
I wandered through Anarkali looking for a chemist to get some antiseptic cream for my swollen stings.

Having trouble explaining my situation to the shopkeeper, it was easier to pick up a bottle of 'Dettol' and pay the man. I'll keep an eye on the stings and if they get worse I'll go see a doctor.

I went back to the shop to buy the toy rickshaw and also bought other gifts to take home.

I was taken by a dazzling display of glass bangles, every colour of the rainbow was glittering in stacks of the delicate jewelery. Deciding they would make excellent gifts, I enquired about a price and the man said Rs40. I chose 4 different colours and he happily wrapped up 4 different stacks of bangles. How naive of me, I thought the price was per bangle but it was for a full tube of them. What a bargain but could be a problem getting them home.

I got five leather wallets for Rs1000... another bargain.

I also learned that I hadn't actually been going to Anarkali Bazaar during my wanderings.

I stumbled across it today by accident, it was magical, an Aladdin's Cave, crammed full of shimmering jewelery and sparkling clothing. It reminded me of the Victorian indoor market halls or arcades but without any tall space above. An underground tunnel, a maze of colour, gold and silver all changing from one stall to the next.

When I reached the walls of the Old City, the traffic was jammed with rush hour.

I decided to follow the wall around as it was in the direction (vaguely) of my hotel. There were a variety of single mule carts pulling very long loads of steel cable.

I gawked at the shops recycling engine parts, boys cleaning ball bearings in all sizes as the men tinkered with huge engines.

It was hot, dusty and noisy on the busy road and I was tired. I drifted into the Old City through a large gateway. It was another labyrinthine experience and reminded me of Venice but without the canals and only one tourist... me.

I got lost several times so decided to keep the sun on my right. I bought some lemonade and was encouraged to sit and rest in front of the shopkeepers air-con unit before continuing. A group of young lads were hanging out in a small games arcade next door.
Back at the hotel, I had Mutton Ginger Handi in the restaurant, it was brilliant. I think there were some people actually enjoying the rooftop barbecue this evening.

All my postcards are ready to send in the morning.

Haven't had time to organise photos today... too busy wandering around town, drifting.

Grand Trunk Fortress Brick Farm Sting

Woke to the smell of thinners in my room at 7.35am.

Thought I was dreaming at first then started worrying about toxic poisoning so got up to investigate. It was foggy outside so thought it was perhaps coming from outside in the street. I grabbed my camera and went up onto the roof but it was nice and fresh up there.

As I made my way back down to my room it became obvious that the smell was strongest on the stairwell.

I closed the fire door on my landing and turned my air con off and turned on the bathroom extractor fan, eventually clearing the room. Think they must have been doing some work in the building somewhere?

Omelette for breakfast.

At the bank, they told me that American Express has ceased to operate throughout Pakistan due to the current political climate. I tried the ATM and after running around between different banks I finally rang my credit card company to find that their system was down.

I am stuck for cash.

Fortunately the driver (Arif) of our mini-bus loaned me some cash to put me on for the next few days, how embarrassing. Nazerkat and Ali accompanied me on the trip, the girl from Jhelum wasn't feeling well so couldn't join us.

The long journey along the GT (Grand Trunk Road) was fabulous, a real kaleidoscope of Pakistani life.

School bus 'non-stops'...
It felt like being on a motorway with pedestrians and animals at every junction and places in between. 'Road Safety' is not part of public consciousness.

There was a variety of cargo being transported via this major transport artery.

I remember one of the children at the school back home telling me about The Tulip Hotel near Jhelum so when I saw it, I knew we were close.

Jhelum itself is actually a bustling city running at full speed along the side of the river Jhelum.

I was impressed with the traffic wardens as they cleared up parking violations.

With small colourful fruit sellers under canopies.

We drove down by the water and saw makeshift houses on the banks of the river.
Afterwards, we drove out of the city to nearby Rhotas Fort, a breathtaking 12 mile perimeter wall, 100ft high in places and about 20 ft thick. A community of people still live inside the walls and accommodate tourism with a guide book and drinks kiosk.The driver took a rest under a tree while Nazerkat, Ali and I wandered around for an hour.
The space inside the walls was so vast that at times it was hard to comprehend being inside a fortress. Small cattle roamed freely and there was a deep well, which had been cut into the rock many years ago, creating a long stairway down to a natural water source.

I suggested climbing onto the walls to get a better view of the terrain and the well.I put my bag on the wall while Nazerkat took my photo and when I picked it up, I must have disturbed a hornets nest.I heard a sound like crackling crisp packets around ears then sharp stabbing pains on my shoulders, hands and ears. Then I heard Nazerkat's voice screaming loud and clear... 'Run Mr William... RUN!!'

I burst into a sprint, flapping my arms around my head until I no longer heard the crackling sound. I ran around the corner, past Ali and dropped down the wall at great speed and into the clearing.

Nazerkat was first on the scene, he had run back along the wall and down the steps. I was shaking and the stings were already quite swollen. Nazerkat recalled a childhood incident where he had a reaction to a sting and was starting to panic. I reassured him that I was ok and not allergic to bee stings, even though they were about 3 inch long.

Ali couldn't believe how quickly I'd descended the wall, so the next 10 mins was about my interest in Fell Running (mountain running). Looking back at the wall, I couldn't remember how I'd done it either.

We carried on our tour, taking pictures of royal buildings and tiger pits, all the while Nazerkat was still shaken by the incident.

I could hear the distant rumblings of thunder to the north of our position or was it the trouble in the Northern territories?

We stopped at a brick factory outside the walls of the fort and the workers agreed to let us have a look around.

It really is fascinating how they work the land...

just like a farmer using crop rotation systems.

I tried to get snaps of the whole process from mixing the soil and water...

to packing and turning the moulded bricks...

to stacking and firing the huge land kiln.

I could have stayed watching them for days, it really was a humbling experience.

On the way home, it was dark when we stopped for Iftar and a meal at a posh restaurant on the GT road. We all ate chicken dishes of my choosing and Ali insisted on paying.

I made sure the driver was ok to take Ali home after dropping me off at my hotel at 10pm.

Absolutely exhausted, with swollen fingers, shoulders and ears, it was truly an amazing adventure.

As my guide from Lahore Fort, Mohamad Ashraf would say... Maza Agya!